I adore spinach (saag) curries. They come in many delicious guises. In this recipe, chicken
(murgh) gets the treatment with a savoury, creamy, tangy, green spinach sauce. Cheese and shrimp saags are other wonderful options. (Try: Saag Paneer Curry, Saag Jhinga Curry.)

MASALA
1 tbsp (15 mL) dried methi
1 tsp (5 mL) ground cumin
1/2 tsp (2 mL) each: ground coriander, cayenne powder
1/4 tsp (1 mL) ground turmeric
1/8 tsp (0.5 mL) ground nutmeg
CURRY
2 medium bunches spinach (1-1/2 lb/750 g), stemmed, washed
1/4 cup (60 mL) ghee
2 lb (1 kg) bone-in chicken thighs, skinned, fat trimmed
1 large onion, grated
4 cloves garlic, pressed or minced
1 tsp (5 mL) puréed ginger
2 large plum tomatoes (total 9 oz/255 g), chopped
1 tsp (5 mL) or more kosher salt
1/3 cup (75 mL) heavy cream (35%)
3/4 to 1 cup (175 to 250 mL) plain yogurt

Masala: In small bowl, stir together ingredients.

Curry: In large pan, cook spinach (with water clinging to leaves), stirring occasionally, 5 minutes, or just until wilted. Drain, but do not press to remove more water. Reserve pan. Let spinach sit in strainer until lukewarm. Chop.

In 12-inch (30 cm) skillet, heat 2 tbsp (30 mL) ghee on medium until shimmery. Add half of chicken. Cover skillet with splatter guard. Sear, turning once, 5 minutes, or until chicken browns and releases easily from skillet. Using tongs, transfer to plate. Repeat browning with remaining 2 tbsp (30 mL) ghee and chicken.

Add 2 tbsp (25 mL) ghee from skillet to reserved pan. Heat on medium until shimmery. Add onion. Cook, stirring often, 4 minutes, or until golden. Stir in garlic and ginger. Stir in masala 30 seconds. Stir in tomatoes and 1 tsp (5 mL) salt. Stir in spinach. Cook, stirring often and scraping pan, 2 minutes, or until well combined. Add cream. Stir in chicken (with juices). Reduce heat to low and cover. Simmer 45 minutes, or until very tender.

Remove from heat. Stir in 3/4 cup (175 mL) yogurt. Adjust salt. If desired, add some or all of remaining yogurt to adjust creaminess.

Makes 4 servings.

• For vibrant flavour, Indians toast and grind spices just before using them.
• Meat on the bone is tastier. However, you can opt for boneless chicken and reduce the cooking time.
• I fool with tradition and stir in the yogurt at the end, as it curdles and offends the eye when simmered.

Kitchen Secrets: Grating the onion using the large holes on a box grater is an Indian culinary trick. Be warned: It will make you cry. Finely chop the ends you can’t get at.

Shopping Cart: Drop into an Indian grocery store to buy the methi and paneer (fresh cheese sold in blocks). Some supermarkets now sell paneer, too, which makes me happy.

M is for Methi: Leaves from the fenugreek plant are known as methi. They are sold fresh and dried. The former may be called methi greens. The latter have a smoky accent; they may be labelled qasuri methi.

G is for Ghee: Indian clarified butter is called ghee. Longer simmering leaves it nuttier and more golden than clarified butter. Many supermakets sell ghee. Sometimes, I make my own.

CREDIT: SUSAN SAMPSON
TESTED IN IMPERIAL